When the dark days of January finally show some signs of brightening into spring, and a month of prayer and fasting draws to a close, it is time to go west for some much needed indulgence…

Earlier this year I had the great good fortune to attend a gustatory extravaganza at Knockranny House Hotel in Westport, Co Mayo, ‘co-hosted’ by Seamus Commons and Liam Cabot. Commons is a chef of great talent, a kitchen wizard whose forte is game in all its forms, be it feathered or furred. Cabot is the ever-enthusiastic wine merchant who seldom puts a foot wrong, importing a range of exciting wines that shame the pedestrian offerings of some of the better known merchants.

The event took place over the last weekend in January and on the Saturday morning, for those who hadn’t made free with the wine list the night before, Commons ably demonstrated how to turn a plump sea bass into Pan Seared Sea Bass, Fennel & Orange Salad, Avocado Purée & Tomato Dressing. The sum of my contribution was enthusiastic spectating and ravenous sampling of the finished dish.

That afternoon Cabot staged a mini wine fair, complete with masterclasses from the winemakers who had travelled from Germany, Italy, Austria, Slovenia and France for the occasion. There was hardly a dud amongst the wines I tasted and the masterclasses were concise and to the point – not the rambling monologues that some winemakers indulge in. Star wine was the vividly flavoured Moric Blaufrankisch 2009 that outshone even its nominally better ‘Reserve’ big brother.

That evening we sat down to a nine-course feast too expansive to elaborate on here, though the Roast Pork Fillet, Cider Braised Shoulder Pithivier, Mustard Fruit, Cabbage & Parsley Root deserves special mention. The only minor stone in shoe was the glassware, which was due an upgrade.

If you are stuck for a serious stocking filler for spouse or lover, this weekend will be repeated next year on 1st & 2nd February, priced at €199 per person sharing. More details at: www.knockrannyhousehotel.ie

Tags: Knockranny, Austria